battery charger has solar panel schematic with explanation

battery charger has solar panel scheme

battery charger scheme has solar panel:

This assembly is nothing but a dual comparator that connects the panel to the battery when the voltage across this last trap is low and the disconnected it exceeds a certain threshold.

As it is only by measuring the battery voltage, it is more particularly intended to lead batteries. a liquid or gelled electrolyte, which accommodate the most of this Fagon to do. The battery voltage is divided by R3 and fU before being applied has I'entree FQSA two comparators and IC2 t When lower the threshold determined by P2L IC2b output goes high which causes
also the output of IC2c high. T1 is saturated and the relay RL-adhesive, which allows the solar panel to power the battery and hence recharging via D3. When the terminal voltage of the battery exceeds the fixed threshold Pi, the output goes low Ida making it do the same in IC -... and therefore causes the takeoff of reiais thus avoiding overloading of the Demière. So that the thresholds determined by P and P2 are stable, they are powered via the controller integrated IC, carefully decouple the voltage from the solar panel via D2 and C4. Indeed, when switching of the relay, this voltage fluctuates Fagon high, which may affect the operation of the comparators.

Electronic compostates: Id: 78L05 [controller + 5V / 100mA, boftierT092) IC2: LM339 T: 2N2222A Di, D4: 1N914ou1N4148 D2 1N4004 D3: BY252, BY255, 1N5402LEDi: red LED Panel snlaire: TGM 500-12 [ 500 Evil, TGM 750-12 [750 mA), TGM 1000-1012 [1 A] for example (Selectronic) Ri, R5: 15kQl / 4W5 ° / o [brown, green, orange] Rz, Rfi! A7: 22 kB 1 / 4W 5% [red, red, orange] R3 220 k ^ 1 / 4W 5% [red, red, yellow] R4 100 k £ 2 1 / 4W 5% [brown, black, yellow ] R8 4.7 kQ. 1 / 4W 5%[yellow, purple, red] R9 6.8 kQ. 1 / 4W 5% [blue, gray, red] Rid: it 680 1 / 4W 5%[blue, gray, brown] Ci: 0.22 uF mylar Cz, C7: 10 uF / 25V radial chemical C3, C5, C6 0.1 uF mylar C4: 100 | iF / 25V axial chemical RLi: miniature relay FBR 244FUJITSU or equivalent 12V / 2RT / 1 A Pi, P2: potentiometer adjustable vertical CERMET 10 kQ PCB If: Switch 1 Circuit 3 positions 1 C1 14 feet support

Goldmund Mimesis - 3 Schmatic circuit with explanation

Goldmund Mimesis - 3 Schmatic circuit

Above circuit is a pretty generic High-end Power Amplifier. The schematic quite similar to the one that ghosts around the block as "The G0ldm0uth" Amplifier over at DIYA, but with bipolar tripple emitter follower output and not mosfets, output runs at a fair bit of bias current, around 1 Amp in total and uses three complementary pairs of 30MHz (-nominal-) output transistors.

PIC Based Auto Dimmer circuit schematic with explanation

The operation of the dimmer is based on phase control; during a full cycle of an AC waveform, a thyristor will only allow a part of the waveform to be delivered to the load. Take a look at the following waveforms:

The only difference is that the waveform on the left will bright the lamp higher than the waveform on the right. That is because, on the left waveform, the triac will be conductive earlier than the triac shown in the right waveform.

The time that the triac becomes conductive is symbolized with the Greek letter α (ALPHA) , called firing angle, so controlling this angle you can control the phase voltage, and is measured in angles from the zero point of the waveform. This zero point is the point that the voltage is 0 volts, and this happens 2 times every one full period of the wave form. When the α becomes smaller, then the dimmer becomes conductive sooner and the lamp is brighter. When the α becomes bigger, then the triac delays more to become conductive and thus the lamb is dimmer.

A full wavelength period is 360 degrees (2π). Due to the fact that during a full wave length the zero cross occurs twice, α can take values from 0° to 180 degrees (0 - π). When α = 0°, the full power is delivered to the load and when α = π, no power is delivered to the load.

The zero cross detection circuit is the most critical part when designing a dimmer. This circuit will watch the input power waveform and detect when this waveform crosses the 0 point and becomes 0 volts.

Zero cross detection circuits are mainly used in cases when the dimmers needs to be controlled from a micro controller. In that case, the micro-controller needs to know the zero cross detection point of the waveform, so that it can calculate the angle offset to send the trigger pulse to the gate of the triac.

In this case i am using three second delay for auto changing the brightness and interrupt for zero crossing. The range required for my test is 10% to 90% means 22v to 198v for 220v ac.
Also note me using 4Mhz crystal with 22pF capacitors.

Video:


Download: Code n Files

Schematic:

MCU Based Auto Dimmer

Components Required:

R1-R3, R6-------------------------10k ohm

R7-R8-----------------------------1k ohm

C1----------------------------------10nF Ceramic

Q1----------------------------------BC547

Q2----------------------------------BC557

U1----------------------------------PIC16F628A

U2----------------------------------BT136 Triac

Bridge Rectifier

4MHz Crystal

22pF Ceramic (2)

Low Cost Capacitive Touch Switch II circuit schematic with explanation

Low Cost Capacitive Touch Switch II

In my previous post of capacitive touch switch, it gives the o/p as long as you touch it. Means it was only drive the load when you touch it, and when you remove your hand/finger then it was not able to drive the load. Tough that touch switch circuit can be used in various apps but does not meet my requirements. So by changing the circuit a little bit i am able to design a touch switch that behave like a normal switch i.e touch to on and touch to off.

For this i used CD4017 decade counter. Output of 40106 drives this counter and load is connected to the pin2 of the counter, and reset is to pin4. When you touch the touch plate (wire in my case) a pulse is provided to the counter and it increments its o/p. So as the load is connected to the Q1 of counter, the o/p is high to drive the load. Similarly if you want to switch off the load and again touch the plate; counter will increment again and reset itself and make Q0 high. As your load is not connected to this pin it will go off. That is all!.

Video:

Schematic:

Components Required:

R1------------------------------6.8k ohm

R2------------------------------10k ohm pot

R3------------------------------100k ohm

R4------------------------------10M ohm

R5,R6--------------------------10k ohm

R7------------------------------1M ohm
R8------------------------------1k ohm

C1,C4--------------------------1nF

C2,C3--------------------------100nF

IC1-----------------------------40106
IC2-----------------------------CD4017

D1------------------------------1N4148
LED

Q1------------------------------2N5457

AVR wireless dimmer Project circuit schematic with explanation

AVR wireless dimmer Project
At first we have to modify the layout of the old Avr dimmer. I don't think the RS232 interface will be used much when we have the wireless option available, so all the parts for the RS232 will have to go, the other thing that we don't really need anymore is the crystal with the 2 capacitors, because the ATtiny2313 has a build in RC clock of 4 and 8 Mhz which is more than sufficient. One more thing that could go is the infrared receiver, but this doesn't take much room on the circuit board so I will leave it on for the moment. The last thing we need to change is the power supply. The iDwaRF module needs between 2.7 to 3.6 Volts. The ATTiny2313 will run on a voltage between 2.7 to 5.5 volts and the infrared receiver needs 2,7 to 5,5 Volts if we use the TSOP 31236. So if we decide on a power supply of 3.3 Volts all the components will be happy.

Changing the voltage from 5 to 3.3 Volts sounds easier then it turned out to be. Negative regulators of -3.3 Volt are rare and if that is not all the Wireless module seems to have a peak current of more than 60 mA. Our old design could only supply an average of 20 mA. Also I want the dimmer to be power efficient, since I might end up with 10 or more dimmers, regulating everything in the house. So I am thinking of a switching regulator. This way we have a very efficient power supply that can temperarely supply higher currents. More will follow. This will need some testing.

At first we have to modify the layout of the old Avr dimmer. I don't think the RS232 interface will be used much when we have the wireless option available, so all the parts for the RS232 will have to go, the other thing that we don't really need anymore is the crystal with the 2 capacitors, because the ATtiny2313 has a build in RC clock of 4 and 8 Mhz which is more than sufficient. One more thing that could go is the infrared receiver, but this doesn't take much room on the circuit board so I will leave it on for the moment. The last thing we need to change is the power supply. The iDwaRF module needs between 2.7 to 3.6 Volts. The ATTiny2313 will run on a voltage between 2.7 to 5.5 volts and the infrared receiver needs 2,7 to 5,5 Volts if we use the TSOP 31236. So if we decide on a power supply of 3.3 Volts all the components will be happy.

Changing the voltage from 5 to 3.3 Volts sounds easier then it turned out to be. Negative regulators of -3.3 Volt are rare and if that is not all the Wireless module seems to have a peak current of more than 60 mA. Our old design could only supply an average of 20 mA. Also I want the dimmer to be power efficient, since I might end up with 10 or more dimmers, regulating everything in the house. So I am thinking of a switching regulator. This way we have a very efficient power supply that can temperarely supply higher currents. More will follow. This will need some testing.




http://domotica.homeip.net/dimmer3.html

IR Light Dimmer v.1 circuit schematic with explanation

IR Light Dimmer v.1
This is a device for adjusting lights in your home with any type of remote controller (tv, dvd, video,…). Today we are using many devices in our homes to improve quality of our life and this is another example on how you can enhance a simple procedure like switching the lights ON/OFF. It may be difficult to many of us to stand up from our chair only to switch lights, so try imagining yourself doing this with your remote controller.



http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/motor_light/044/index.html

Low Cost Universal Battery Charger Schematic

Low cost solution for charging of both NiCd and NiMh batteries

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Here is the circuit diagram of a low cost universal charger for NiCD – NiMH batteries. This circuit is Ideal for car use. It has ability to transform a mains adapter in to a charger . This one can be used to charge cellular phone, toys, portables, video batteries, MP3 players, … and has selectable charge current. An LED is located in circuit to indicate charging. Can be built on a general purpose PCB or a veroboard. I hope you really like it.

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Picture of the circuit:

A Low Cost Universal Charger Circuit Schematic

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Circuit diagram:

A Low Cost Universal Charger Circuit Diagram

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Parts:

R1 = 120R-0…5W
R2 = See Diagram
C1 = 220uF-35V
D1 = 1N4007
D2 = 3mm. LED
Q1 = BD135
J1 = DC Input Socket

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Specifications:

• Ideal for in car use.
• LED charge indication.
• Selectable charge current.
• Charges Ni Cd or NiMH batteries.
• Transforms a mains adapter into a charger.
• Charge cellular phone, toys, portables, video batteries …

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Features:

• LED function indication.
• Power supply polarity protected.
• Supply current: same as charge current.
• Supply voltage: from 6.5VDC to 21VDC (depending on used battery)
• Charge current (±20%): 50mA, 100mA, 200mA, 300mA, 400mA. (selectable)

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Determining the supply voltage:

This table indicates the minimum and maximum voltages to supply the charger. See supply voltage selection chart below.

Example:

To charge a 6V battery a minimum supply voltage of 12V is needed, the maximum voltage is then 15V.

Voltage selection:

Voltage Selection Chart For Low Cost Universal Battery Charger

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Determining the charge current:

Before building the circuit, you must determinate how much current will be used to charge the battery or battery pack. It is advisable to charge the battery with a current that is 10 times smaller then the battery capacity, and to charge it for about 15 hours. If you double the charge current , then you can charge the battery in half the time. Charge current selection chart is located in diagram.

Example:

A battery pack of 6V / 1000mAh can be charged with 100mA during 15 hours. If you want to charge faster, then a charge current of 200mA can be used for about 7 hours.

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Caution:

The higher charge current, the more critical the charge time must be checked. When faster charging is used, it is advisable to discharge the battery completely before charging. Using a charge current of 1/10 of the capacity will expand the lifetime of the battery. The charge time can easily be doubled without damaging the battery.

Note:

• Mount the transistor together with the heatsink on the PCB, bend the leads as necessary. Take care that the metal back of the transistor touches the heatsink. Check that the leads of the transistor do not touch the heatsink.

50 Watts Simple Audio Power Amplifier from OSU IEEE Student Group

This simple audio power amplifier was originally designed for a circuit board workshop, conducted by the OSU IEEE Student Group. At the workshop, 20 participants each constructed this amplifier, by etching and drilling the single sided circuit board, soldering all components, and attaching a pre-built heatsink assembly with the output transistors. Three workshops were held between 1995 to 1996. Though the design is simple, these amplifers have impressive preformance, with a frequency response to approx 40 kHz, very low noise, reasonably fast slew rate, and approx 50 watts (true "RMS" power) with the proper +/- 40 volt unregulated power supply.

Someday, I'll do some substantial testing to determine exactly what the power output is, and create some more detailed pages about how to build this amplifier.

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Update: the input transistor are 2N5210, not 2N2510 as shown above

Transistor	Color
2N5210	Blue
MPSA56	Pink
MPSA06	Yellow
2N3904	Green
2N3906	White

These color parts placement diagrams are also available in as postscript files in a ZIP archive.

This parts list is under construction... I'm gathering part info for several lists, so pleast don't assume this list is totally correct or complete.

Qty	Vendor	Part #	Description
1	Newark	58F508	Wakefield 421k Heatsink
2	Mouser	567-7-373-BA	Low-Power TO-220 heatsink
3	Mouser	592-2N5210	Low Noise NPN, TO-92
1	Mouser	161-4215	Phono Jack, 90 deg PCB mount
1	Mouser	592-MPSA06	Medium Power NPN, TO-92
1	Mouser	592-MPSA56	Medium Power PNP, TO-92
1	Mouser	511-TIP29C	Power NPN, TO-220
1	Mouser	511-TIP30C	Power PNP, TO-220
1	Mouser	511-TIP33C	High Power NPN, TO-218
1	Mouser	511-TIP34C	High Power PNP, TO-218
2	??	2N3904	General Purpose NPN
1	??	2N3906	General Purpose PNP
2	Mouser	583-1N4742A	12V Zener Diode
5	Mouser	592-1N4148	Small Signal Diode
3	Mouser	583-1N4001	1A (slow) rectifier diode
6	Mouser	140-XLR16V100	16V 100uF Capacitor (radial)
1	Mouser	140-CD50N6-331K	330pF NPO Capacitor
1	Mouser	141-100N5-051J	51 pF NPO Capacitor
6	Mouser	140-PF2A104K	0.1uF Mylar film capacitor
2	Mouser	28PR002-0.3	3 Watt 0.3 Ohm Power resistor
1	Mouser	594-63P502	5K Top adjust cermet trim pot
2	Mouser	29SJ500-2.2K	2.2K 1/2 Watt Carbon Resistor
1/2	Injectorall	PC18P	4x6 board
5			1/2 inch 4-40 machine screw
5			4-40 nut
5			4-40 lockwasher
2			Shoulder Washer
2			Insulator, TO-218 size
1			Cable Clamp
2			Red Wire, 18 AWG
1			Yellow Wire, 18 AWG
1			Orange Wire, 22 AWG
2			Blue Wire, 18 AWG
1			Purple Wire, 22 AWG
2			Green Wire, 18 AWG
1			Black Wire, 18 AWG
1			Black Wire, 22 AWG
1			White Wire, 22 AWG
1			Gray Wire, 22 AWG
1			Resistor, 4.7 Ohm, 5%
2			Resistor, 47 Ohm, 5%
6			Resistor, 220 Ohm, 5%
1			Resistor, 330 Ohm, 5%
2			Resistor, 1k, 5%
2			Resistor, 1.1k, 5%
1			Resistor, 3k, 5%
1			Resistor, 6.8k, 5%
1			Resistor, 22k, 5%
1			Resistor, 47k, 5%
1			Resistor, 10k, 1%, metal film
1			Resistor, 47k, 1%, metal film

Note: The TIP33C and TIP34C have been discontinued and are generally not available anywhere. A wide range of power transistors will work, but they should be rated for at least 100V, 8A, and 80W power dissipation. Safe area operating curves and good thermal dissipation data are rarely available, so it's a guessing game. The more expensive TO-3 package parts, such as the MJ15003 & MJ15004 will certainly be more than sufficient for replacing the TIP33C & TIP34C. The only really compelling reason to use the TIP33C & TIP34C are because they cost less and come in a TO-218 package, which requires only one mounting hole.

Wire

  Diode assembly:         Gray 22 AWG (cathode)
                        White 22 AWG (annode)
NPN Power Transistor:   Red 18 AWG (collector)
                        Orange 22 AWG (base)
                        Yellow 18 AWG (emitter)
PNP Power Transistor:   Green 18 AWG (collector)
                        Violet 22 AWG (base)
                        Blue 18 AWG (emitter)
Input Signal:           No wires, PCB mount jack
Output Signal:          Blue 18 AWG (from PC board)
                        Black 18 AWG (from power supply)
PC Board Power:         Red 18 AWG (to +35V on supply)
                        Black 22 Awg (to ground on supply)
                        Green 18 AWG (to -35V on supply)

Vendors

Mouser - 800-346-6873, 619-449-2222
Newark - 800-463-9275, 503-297-1984
Injectorall - 800-878-7227, 516-563-3388

Testing

If any of these tests fail, the amp is not constructed properly... the easiest and best way to find the problem is visual inspection.

1. Turn variable resistor fully counterclockwise (max resistance)
2. Connect to +/- 24 volt supply with 200mA current limit. No input and no output connected. Monitor current from power supply with a current meter.
3. Apply power... if current is above about 25 mA, shut off immediately!
4. Measure voltage across the 1k resistor connected to the input stage and Vcc. The DC voltage should be about 2 volt, or 2 mA of current through this resistor. Eg, if Vcc is at 24 volts, the side of this resistor connected to the 2N5210 transisor ought to be at about 22 volts.
5. Measure the DC voltage on the output line. It should be appox zero volts. -0.2 volts is probably fine.
6. Turn the variable resistor slowly until the amplifer's current consumption is approx 50 mA. Turn slowly and be careful... if you turn too far you could damage the output transistors.
7. Conect an oscilloscope to the output and apply a low amplitude 20 kHz square wave to the input. DO NOT connect any speakers during this test. This test should be done without the 330 pF capacitor installed. The amp should output a 20 kHz square wave with very little "ringing". It should not oscillate.
8. Solder the 330 pF capacitor into the circuit.
9. Shut off the power, connect audio input and a speaker. Make sure the volume is turned all the way down. Apply power... watch current meter again and shut off the power immediately if the current jumps to something much higher than 50 mA.
10. Slowly turn up the volume and see if the amp works. DO NOT turn it up very much... the amplifier should not be operated with a supply less than +/- 30 volts. It should never be used for high volume output without a power supply rated for at least 2 amps of current (8 ohm load). After this initial test with +/- 24V at 200 mA (current limited) only a proper power supply should be used which can provide enough current.

Stereo 60W+60W RMS Power Amplifier using LM4780

Features
60W per channel into 8 ohms load at less than 0.5% THD+N from 20Hz-20KHz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio >= 97dB
Quiet fade-in/out mute mode
Click and Pop supression
SPiKe protection
Compact Stereo

Design Objectives

The idea is to design a compact power amplifier system. The design should be simple and cost effective while maintaining the sound quality at optimal performance. It should be built modular so that the same PCBs can be simply cascaded to provide additonal 4, 6 or more output channels. The selection of the components to be integrated into the final design are carefully picked to maintain the THD+N performance.

System Operation & Description

The LM4780 power stereo amplifier is configured as a non-inverting amplifier which has to a gain of 20V/V which is high enough to maintain stability and not too high untill increasing the noise and THD+N performance. The input is taken from the RCA jack which then feed to two high quality 1uF metallized polyester film capacifor with 100V rating. The power output socket provides easy push-release terminals for speaker cable connections (see snap-shots picture below).

Schematic diagram taken from NS referance PCB design schematic

The schematic diagram is taken straight out from the National Semiconductor's referance PCB design schematic. However I have omitted the muting switch and replaced it with the soft start circuit, as explaned in the LM4780 datasheet. I have also added the L//R network (L=0.7uH, R=10 ohms 2W) at both the outputs.

PCB Drawing (Not in Scale). The LM4870 power amp and the PSU (drawing left)

Circuit Description

Two 10,000uF capacitor provides sufficient buffer for the amplifier to pump and handles the bass response without distorting the output signal. A mica-sheet with heat sink compound is used in between the LM4780 and heatsink ensures proper heat transfer. A T0-3 type mica-sheet is being used because it is widely available. The heatsink is mounted vertically with its fins as shown on the snap shots below, allows heat to dissipate naturally, without the need of a cooling fan.

Full view of the power amplifier


Angle View


Abit closer


Complete side view of the power amplifier


Top view - A 125VA 24V-0-24V transformer is used


Two 10,000uF capacitor ensures there is enough buffer


Upgrades & Comments

A speaker protection circuit which detects faulty DC level at speaker terminals should be added to ensure speaker protection. This amplifier can be linked with the stereo pre-amplifier project for full-functional amplifier systems with digital tone and volume control. You can add an additional mono-channel 120W RMS power amplifier to drive a subwoofer, giving a 2.1 channel amplifier system.

Basically the output sound quality, channel cross-talk, stability, channel gain matching are much much better than those constructed using discrete components. The overall PCB size has been reduced as more function has been integrated into the LM4780 chip. The basic protection features are also integrated, ensures total protection of the chip.

With its high PSRR rating, a simple power supply design can be constructed thus reducing cost of components used in designing a well regulated power supply.